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Cheese 4

Berthaut Epoisses Perriere

Melanie Wong | Oct 27, 201310:08 AM

This summer I was invited to a tasting of Burgundy vs. local Pinot Noir at a private home in Sonoma County. Expecting that there would be far too many wines on hand than could be consumed, I wanted to bring something else instead for the host. After a full day, I dashed into the Oliver's market in Santa Rosa to find an appropriate cheese to match up with wine theme. I was delighted to see Berthaut's large wheels of Epoisses stacked on the cheese counter. I've not had much luck with the small rounds of Berthaut in this country and have stopped purchasing them. They're often too salty, dried out or unevenly ripe. I prefer to buy a piece cut from the near kilo size wheels so that I can taste before purchasing. Also, the salt balance is better to my taste and the deeper paste seems creamier.

I'd asked the caterer to put the wheel on the buffet table. When I returned not too long afterwards to have a taste, here's what I found.

So, I think they liked it. Several of the guests who were familiar with Epoisses had not tried it in the large format before and said it seemed like an entirely different cheese. I have to agree. It tasted the same to me as the examples in France. What have others' experiences been with the two formats?

In 2012, we bought a whole wheel at Alain Hess in Beaune. The shop gets a delivery every Friday to stock up for the weekend. The linked photo shows the cheese the next day atop a mechanic's tool cart at the Citroen dealer, the Beaune headquarters for the French equivalent of AAA, where our car had been towed and we waited for a taxi to drive us back to Paris. The cheese made its way to a dinner party to the Parisian home of Burgundy natives. Being Berthaut partisans, they were happy with our choice and told us that this is the way that Epoisses was meant to be. My traveling companion and I, OTOH, favor raw milk Epoisses from Gaugry, but could agree with their comments on the refinement of Berthaut's aroma and the silkier texture.

In 2006, I'd met up with some friends in Beaune. Before leaving town, we shopped at the Saturday market and purchased a whole Epoisses Perriere. The cheesemonger cautioned that it was very ripe and we'd need to eat it within a day. The next morning we left Beaune to make our way over the Alpine passes to their home in Geneva. After the journey over the winding roads, the squishy mass had compressed on one side of the container. Yet, even at this stage of fluidity, the cheese did not exhibit an overripe defects. I recall the three of us polishing off most of it with great gusto that night.

Specifications for Berthaut Epoisses Perriere

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