Restaurants & Bars 14

benares, london

howler | Feb 2, 2010 02:36 PM

i was there for a business dinner with lots of people, so we tried the whole menu.

horrendous: i don't think so much has been paid by so many for so little joy. and it didn't help my temper that the room was ridiculously loud.

honestly, the standard of cooking was at the bangla curry house level. butter chicken was sweeter than dessert, the lamb in the rogan josh was dry as a drought and entirely tasteless (at these prices you think they could source goat, but alas). kaali dal was ehh. the paratha/roti/naan came cold to the table. faux french style dishes were ridiculous. the so called paneer dish was laughable ... i could go on, but whats the point?

somebody please explain to these misguided one star michelin types that punjabi food is a lustful, joyful, all embracing cuisine: it is not food for gussying up and 'presenting'. kaali dal, butter chicken and paratha are truck stop specials in punjab, utterly delicious and heart warming. they've been stripped of all of that at benares: you get the muzak version of rock 'n roll.

avoid with extreme prejudice.

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