I just returned from 10 days in Belize. Most reports on Belizean food on this board were not encouraging...but I managed quite well. though i did get a little sick of rice and beans, Belize is definitely on the upswing in terms of tourism, and that seems to have raised the culinary bar quite a bit. Most of the restaurants I went to were full of tourists; perhaps the locals still just can't get enough of their stewed chicken with rice and beans. I'll organize my notes by the different towns I went to.
Belize City - ate two dinners, the first being at what is probably the most expensive restaurant in all of belize (total bill, with alcohol, was $60 for two). i believe it was called "harbor view" and is part of the new 'tourism village'. though i've been to developing cities such as lima and manila in the past, the locals spooked me into thinking it was incredibly dangerous to walk outside at night, so i ended up here because it was near my hotel. anyway, the food was about what you would expect from a seafood place in san francisco for $15 a plate. also ate decent jerk chicken at a jamaican restaurant.
Caye Caulker - Mostly ate seafood, which was always fresh, plentiful, and well-prepared. Standouts were grilled lobster at Marin's & grilled conch at Hannah's. The latter uses local produce only and served an excellent conch cebiche. Another standout was the cinnamon rolls at glenda's for breakfast. This island is where i bought my first bottle of marie sharp's habanero sauce, the *best* hot sauce i've ever had.
Orange Walk - Stayed only for a morning while waiting for a trip to lamanai (mayan ruins). Had delicious tacos from the central market (one block west of the main square), at the first window in the building. marinated chicken & cabbage on a homemade tortilla, 15 cents each, i ate six.
San Ignacio - Easily the most "progressive" town in belize, with a good variety of restaurants. we had indian, vegetarian, and even sri lankan food here. all was very good, the indian restaurant (hanna's, no relation to hannah's on caye caulker) being the best overall. most resaurants downtown use locally-grown produce, some of it even organic. a major standout was annie's fast food, a small shack on the main drag with inconsistent hours, but great cheap food when she was open. her breakfast fryjacks (eggs, ham, and beans stuffed into a doughy flatbread). kept me coming back every morning.