Sunday morning I headed to the year-round farmers market in the San Francisco’s Stonestown Galleries for the first time. After picking up Paige and Satsuma tangerines from Hamada, a pretzel croissant, fresh pomegranate juice, and a cup of individually brewed Ecco Caffe from GaGa, I had intended to grab a couple lamb skewers. However, the line at Happy Dumpling was too long and slow-moving, so I slid on over to Good Foods Catering to check out the barbecue menu.
For a small taste, pulled pork or brisket sliders are offered at $3. I inquired about the brisket and was told it’s smoked for 12 hours then finished by roasting in the oven and braising in its own juices. The slider was served on a small bun that was buttered and grilled on the spot. I asked for easy on the sauce and mine had just a little swab, which was just right to highlight the smoked meat without overwhelming it. The two slices still had some fat on them, one cut across the grain and the other sliced with the grain. The meat was so soft, as in “don’t need no teeth to eat this meat” proclaimed by some barbecue purveyors, the direction of the grain wasn’t a problem. While tender to a fault and verging on mushy, the brisket still held onto its own moisture and was very silky on the palate and not coarse at all. Very flavorful with but moderate smoke influence, this was one of the most beefy bites I’ve had in a long while. Beefier than pho bo, more intense than a grilled skewer of Kobe beef, as richly primal in beef character as short ribs or oxtail. Even though it was much different than my platonic ideal of barbecued brisket, a week later, I’m still thinking about it.
90 Timothy Rd, Santa Rosa, CA
Good Foods Catering
San Francisco, San Francisco, CA