Just got back from your fair city and wanted to report on my experiences. I got in on Thanksgiving around 6:00 and checked into the club level of the Ritz Carlton. The Ritz provided five different "free" eating opportunies a day (and they were uniformly good), but that wasn't why I came to New Orleans. My first stop was at The Gumbo Shop where we had a mediocre oyster artichoke soup, a good gumbo, an OK shrimp po boy and I can't even remember what I had but it wasn't very good. Things started looking up the next morning when we landed at Uglesich's at 10:30 for lunch. We had a very good crabmeat gratin, a dozen pristine oysters, a combo barbecue shrimp and oyster and a spectacular trout (with someones first name after it) and a side order of sweet potato souffle which could easily serve as dessert. we washed it down with a bottle of Sonoma Cutrer and walked the length of Magazine Street (and back) with a quick stop at the Bulldog.
After a few hours in bed, we made it over to Felix's for a quick two dozen great oysters and to the Napolean House for a Pimms Cup and a Sazerac before heading over to Galatoire's. I had a good tutle soup and my girlfriend had an excellent oyster artichoke soup. We shared a nose clearing garlic salad, followed by pompano amandine and sauteed soft shell crab. We drank a good bottle of a rustic Faiveley Mercurey Clos De Myglands. Everything was simply prepared and perfectly fresh.
The next morning, we set off for the Acme Oyster Bar for lunch. Another two dozen perfect oysters, two pounds of spectacular boiled crawfish (although they were a little small) and some fried soft shell crabs and oysters. The breading was a bit much and the fries were just a little better than OK, but the Bloody Mary was great and Abita on tap is well worth drinking. We walked around for a while and ended up at Bayona. I had a so so shrimp and black bean appetizer, a spectacular crispy quail salad and the best crispy sweetbreads (in sherry mustard I think), with a decent bottle of 01 Lafarge Volnay.
I'm not exactly sure where it fit in, but I had a bourbon at the Lafitte Blacksmith Shop. It's a very pleasant drinking establishment. I also went to the Bourbon House, where they told me they were out of oysters.
I'm coming back soon.