Restaurants & Bars 1

Re-past, Atlanta

biskuit | Feb 17, 2008 06:38 PM

Re-past is celebrating their second birthday, and I am now kicking myself for not getting there sooner. We ate there for the first time this weekend, and our meal was one of our very best in four years in Atlanta. There are many things that make re-past special - from the blending of the flavors and ingredients of the American South and eastern Asia, to the hospitality of the owner/chefs (Joe and Mihoko) who hail from Louisiana and Japan and now call Atlanta home, to the casual but gorgeous atmosphere of the restaurant, to the knowledgeable and enthusiastic service. Above all, the food simply rocks. The closest comparison point I can make for those who haven't been to re-past yet is Rest. Eugene, which has a similar basis in the cuisine of the South, but re-past is less formal, maybe a bit less "refined," but a bit more interesting/unique, and a bit more soulful.

We had four apps and four entrees and four desserts and there was not a miss in the whole bunch - and we were passing around plates like crazy to make sure we all got to try each one. The wine list is varied and offers many unusual options - we had a 2005 Earl Barrere Clos de la Vierge, Jurancon, Sec, which was a delightful wine somewhere between a sauvignon blanc and a viognier, slightly floral, slightly viscous, not too minerally or grassy at all, a very nice companion to the food. We also brought a 2004 Worthy Sophias' cuvee Napa cab blend, which was very nice, much less "cab-y" than I expected, a good bit of spice on top of the fruit and yet very smooth. Per their wine policy, we shared a glass with the chef at our table (plus a $15 fee), but it made for a great conversation with Joe - it's a pleasure to share a good wine with the kitchen over a meal like this.

This was a perfectly satisfying, interesting, enjoyable meal - we will be back, hopefully much much sooner than two years from now!

A quick rundown of the details:

Bacon wrapped medjool dates with marcona almonds and vin cotto - excellent, a stellar rendition

Truffle agnolotti - awesome, perfectly executed, deep and rich flavors, a sauce that demanded bread to be sopped up to the last drop

Roasted beets with shaved fennel, reggiano, toasted pistachio and mostardro dressing - bright, crisp flavors, nice crunch from the pistachio, great combination

Miso marinated foie gras with lotus root and sancho pepper - wow. this is a really unique, subtle and exquisite take on foie gras, with the lotus root actually providing a bit of sweetness to complement the spice of the pepper. knockout dish.

Pork belly and sea scallops with braised shiitake mushrooms and pork jus - as mentioned above, stellar stuff, what a blend of flavors and textures, Southern and Chinese at the same time

Pekin duck breast a la plancha with carolina gold risotto, red wine, and "wild burgundian" escargot - beautiful near-rare duck breasts over a terrific and unusual risotto (smaller grain than typical), very French in character

Black pepper striped bass with sauteed brussel sprouts, chanterelles, and dashi broth - wow, lots of Japanese depth to this in the dashi broth, great kick in the peppered fish, super dish

Bramlett farms N. Georgia mountain trout with creamy greens and black eye peas - lightly fried, southern to the core, great ingredients, imminently enjoyable

And then dessert....
Banana nut bread pudding, "crepe gateaux," chocolate with olive oil and sea salt, gruyere ice cream, lemongrass sorbet - all very good and polished off, the bread pudding was the best of the bunch

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