Restaurants & Bars 5

Antica Osteria del Ponte in Cassinetta di Lugagnano?

Nicolas Rolin | Aug 30, 200406:52 PM

I've a reservation here for one night next week, and I'm starting to have second thoughts. As I look at the menu on the Relais et Chateau website, I'm beginning to entertain second thoughts: is this place is just a bit too Frenchified and frou-frou to really satisfy, esp., considreing the expense? The more I eat in Italy (I've been over a dozen times, at least), the closer I'm drawn to the conclusion that if a restaurant in Italy gets, say, two stars in Michelin (not necessarily the best guide to restauration outside of France) as this one does, then what I'll likely encounter is stiff, formal service, rather "precious" presentations of food that is both overly "pretty" and lacking in soul.

Can anyone offer first-hand experience with Antica Osteria del Ponte? To give you a frame of reference for my own esthetics, I always thought the old Da Guido in Costiglione d'Asti managed succesfully to pull off being a fancy, high-end restaurant without exhibiting any of the faults I mentioned being wary of above. Also, in Verona, two visits to Il Desco have left me cold, and I far prefer, for example, Al Pompiere in the same city.

By the way, while in Milano, we'll no doubt go back to some old favorites such as Osteria del Binari and Al Pont de Ferr. But I'd still like to do one night a bit "fancier" or more elegant...any ideas?

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