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Manhattan

An American Place Is Alive and Semi-Well

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Restaurants & Bars

An American Place Is Alive and Semi-Well

David Feldman | May 27, 2005 12:16 AM

It opened last year to little fanfare, but the latest incarnation of Larry Forgione's An American Place is on the fifth floor of Lord & Taylor.

I've never been a huge fan of Forgione's cooking (his places have always seemed expensive and wan for the price level). But the L&T spot is quiet, much cheaper than his grander restaurants, and largely because of its limited and not very ambitious menu, in many ways more satisfying.

I had an excellent BLT ($10.95, with slaw and homemade potato chips) with applewood smoked bacon and good country bread. And Forgione's wonderful berry shortcake (with superb whipped cream) is exactly the same as I remember it, but at "only" $5.95.

Service was friendly and informal. The place is evidently never crowded (one-half of the space is rarely used), so it provides a respite from the more popular lunch spots in a congested area.

Forgione also runs a snack bar on the sixth floor. My dining companion recommends the burger and tuna salad sandwich there.

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