Just returned from 4 days in Aix en provence. Places not to miss are:
Relais St. Victoire - about a 20 minute ride away. One star place. My appetizer was a selection of 6 mini dishes - mini paella, a tomato soup, a cucumber soup, a salmon wonton, another wonton, a prawn. Simply amazing. Hubby had a truffle and foie gras appetizer that was good, but not as interesting. Amuse bouche was a cold asparagus and toasted almond soup, where the flavor exploded. My main course was a perfect sea bass -wild, not the farmed crap. Very juicy and flavorful, with some veggies, sundried tomatoe puree. Hubby had the veal fricasee, which came with au gratin type potatoes that rich and creamy. I had cheese for dessert, again high quality, 4 diff types. Hubby had the provecne selection of grapefruit flavored desserts . i cant remember what specifically. Wine was a nice provence red, house apertif La Destroye was tasty, passion fruit juice and booze. 3 courses with wine and apertifs and 1 digestif, 1 coffee was Euro174. A great deal, MUCH better than the supremely overated Citronelle in DC which supposedly is one of the top restos in the US, which was more expensive and not half as good.
La Refuge - in one of the squares away from Cour Mirabour. Had the salmon sampler - smoked on toast, cured on toast, en papillot, kebab, and tartare. All very good, except for kebab that was fishy. Hubby had duck sampler - amazing foie gras on toast, grilled breast, smoked duck i think and a few others, i cant recall. Both came with a refreshing house salad with red peppercorns and pine nuts in a vinagreatte. Wine was the house red in jug, which was tasty. Total was 64 Euro
Cafe La Chimere on rue Bouchy - The best foie gras on toast ever. Comes with an interesting onion and fig like accompaniement. Main course was Dorade with saffron ristto perfecty done, hubby had lamb which was a bit fatty. Very dense, (too rich for me) chocolate cake and pleasantly light tiramisu for dessert. Provence wine and funky lychee fruit girl drink apertifs. total was 80 euro.
Overall, Aix is a bit touristy, and too hot at the end of june, but very nice none the less. I highly recommend renting bikes and going to Eguille, you can hit 5 wineries in the vicinity.
La Mirmamar is great in Marseille for bouilabase. A bit pricy - was our most expensive meal there, 184 euro, but we had the best briny, sea salty oysters as apps, drinks and a bottle white Cassis. Worth it for the experience.