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Agave Mexican Restaurant & Tequila Bar – Oaxacan Cooking Emerging in Healdsburg


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Agave Mexican Restaurant & Tequila Bar – Oaxacan Cooking Emerging in Healdsburg

Melanie Wong | Dec 22, 2010 07:49 PM

Agave Mexican Restaurant took over the space near Safeway in Healdsburg previously occupied by Taqueria Santa Rosa. I’ve been there four times since shortly after it opened this summer and the service and food have gotten better with each visit. The friendly owner has stopped by my table to check on things each time. He is from Oaxaca and related to the owners of El Farolito in town, I believe they were helping him out at the beginning, and his mother and father are also involved.

My first visit on June 18, I wanted to taste-test the mole and tried it tamal and enchiladas as a two-item combo with rice and beans, $9.95. I also had an horchata, $2, that’s made in-house from rice, not powder.

The enchiladas de pollo en mole turned out to be a little too sweet for me.

More to my taste was the tamal de mole. Meaty with chicken and balance of the sauce, made by the owner’s mother, was better for me. When I pointed out the difference, the owner said that the mole negro is the same in both the enchilada and tamal, but the steaming does change the flavor a bit. The smooth and flavorful masa uses olive oil, not lard, and plus lots of homemade chicken broth in the mix to pump up the flavor. It's folded the traditional way and steamed in a banana leaf. While I prefer the taste of lard, the texture of the masa did not suffer with this lighter oil. Different, but equally good.

With a good first trial, I asked what other Oaxacan specialties I should try next and asked him about memelitas, huitlacoche, and other colors of mole. He explained that he would love to make all those things but he needs to work with the customer base inherited from the taqueria who mostly order burritos. He said that he’d had sopes/memelas as a special but they did not get good feedback. Still, he said that he was trying to find a source for fresh huitlachoche in season and that he could make a flor de calabaza quesadilla for me the next visit.

I returned on August 7, but alas, after checking with the kitchen, the flor de calabaza purchased from Ortiz Brothers at the Healdsburg farmers market that morning was already sold out. However, he’d just taken delivery of some fresh oysters and encouraged me to try them.

Here’s the half dozen local oysters, grilled and topped with garlic and butter, $10.

Barely firm, the oysters with the natural sweet and briny juices mingled with garlic butter and a squeeze of lime were as good as it gets for summertime bivalves.

I also enjoyed a lovely fresa agua fresca, $2, made with organic strawberries from Sonoma County.

My next visit was August 21. The owner greeted me with a smile and the news that chapulines (dried grasshoppers, genus Sphenarium) was the special of the day. The one other time I’d tasted chapulines as a botana, I was glad to have tried them but felt no need to repeat the experience. I might have waffled for a couple beats, yet felt I had to order the chapulines to encourage the owner to keep adding authentic foods to his menu. Luckily for me I did, as these were much better than my earlier taste. Served as a soft taco, $2.50, and topped with a spicy salsa roja, plus some pico de gallo on the side, these were a smaller and crisper type. The owner said that they’re seasoned and roasted in house for a fresher crunch. I’m now a chapulines fan, if they can be as tasty and crunchy as these.

I also got the last order of the Quesadilla de flor de calabasa (squash blossom), $7.
Priced as the vegetarian quesadilla listed on the menu, the filling included squash blossoms, sweet pepper strips, onions, and Oaxacan cheese. A dab of guacamole and sour cream on the side added more richness.

Besides lucking out with the grasshoppers and squash blossoms, it turned out that Agave had finally received its liquor license the day before and could now open the
Tequila bar. I tried a House margarita made with Tres Agaves blanco, agave syrup and fresh squeezed lime juice, $7, to celebrate. This is a very good house pour.

My most recent visit was a cold night on October 29 when I was in serious need of some warming soup. The special soup of the day was camarones, but I wanted something simpler and asked if something else might be available. My waitress soon came back from the kitchen to tell me that if I could wait a few minutes the beef soup prepped for Saturdays and Sundays would soon be ready.

The Consomé de Res, $9, was simple and glorious. The oxtail and short rib were exactly on point and deeply beefy with just enough seasoning to highlight the natural, nearly unadorned taste of the meat. The owner explained to me that these meats are seasoned in advance, then cooked separately from the stock and combined later. The ingredients used to make the stock give up their soul to the soup and are discarded. The double-meating was evident in the depth of flavor which rivaled the best pho bo. He apologized that in rushing to serve me straight from the pot, the stock had not been chilled and fully skimmed. Not necessary, as the surface had only few specks of grease. The vegetables – potato, corn on the cob, carrots, green beans – were each cooked to the right doneness and full of their own flavor. With a squeeze of lime and the chopped onion and cilantro served on the side, this chased away the cold I’d felt coming on. Chilled in the fridge overnight, my leftover, highly concentrated consome gelled up solid.

Other Oaxacan specialities offered include tlayudas, mole de Oaxaca plate, molotes, and tortas made with quesillo. The owner promised me more soups and home-style stews from his mother’s recipes once the winter came. Also he was looking for someone to make tortillas by hand on the weekend Now that we’ve celebrated the solstice, maybe it’s time to check in again.

Agave’s menu:

El Farolito
128 Plaza St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

Agave Mexican Restaurant & Tequila Bar
1063 Vine St, Healdsburg, CA 95448

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