Two mixed experiences, at Guy Savoy [B+] and Le Cinq, [B-, except for the amuses, which were A+; if only I could have had just large portions of the amuses], sandwiched a spectacular experience at Agape Substance. Here is a chef, David Toutain, who is wildly inventive, witty, and thoughtful, providing tastes you have never had before, some of them astoundingly good, some of them just good. Service is with a smile by people who are extremely interested in and proud of the food they serve. The only negative is that the seating is uncomfortable - backless stools at a high communal table plus with three two-tops on the side, also with high backless stools. There are multiple sites with pictures, so I will simply give a few URLs below. Dinner is now almost impossible but lunch is possible.
For me the most interesting dish was "the black". It is served on a black shale tile. There is a bed of burnt eggplant puree, on which sits a wedge of veal coated in black olive bits. When you cut into the veal, it is a gorgeous pinkish-white, contrasting with the black. Delicious and unique.
http://www.agapesubstance.com/ - includes a video
For lunch, 3 dishes = 39 euros, 4 = 51 euros, and carte blanche = 65; dinner is only carte blanche, it appears, for 99 euros. Dishes are listed only by their main ingredient: egg, tomato, etc.
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