Parnassien once nominated me for an award -- for posts that triggered the strongest reactions. And they both started innocuously enough. In one I was just looking for recommendations for an overnight trip out of the city, but the other might have been my fault -- I called a French-cured ham "prosciutto." I'm still indebted to Parnassien for defending me in both of those posts. Anyway, I'm coming back, and for three days and nights before my daughter arrives I'll be on my own in the 9th. Can you recommend cooking classes, food-related walking tours, communal dinners, or restaurants that are fun on your own? If not, I'd also like recommendations for restaurants in that area that do a good job with offal -- kidneys, sweetbreads, tripe, etc.