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606 Congress (standout bites and energized staff)

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606 Congress (standout bites and energized staff)

enhF94 | May 16, 2013 01:18 PM

I've been exploring the Seaport recently, hoping that over-corporate dining would yield something worth eating. So, we walked in to 606 Congress at the Renaissance Boston. I liked the food much more than I expected, and I was also impressed at how much the staff, both back- and front-of-house, wanted to impress. I've since returned to try more of the menu and found a couple items I loved. In the interest of brevity I'm not going to detail the whole evening, but instead the standout bites.

Charcuterie plate - The high point was "meat butter" - whipped, beef-infused spreadable beef fat. Imagine the light, fluffy texture of whipped butter, but instead full of super-beefy goodness. We were given about a tablespoon to spread on bread and that was enough - it's powerful. Essence of beef with a wonderful mousse texture and fatty satisfaction. The tasso ham was made in-house also, which I liked a lot - very hammy flavor, moist, pink.

Also: a hotel restaurant making head cheese in house? They were, and I was happy to see it, though I thought a little underseasoned, especially the aspic.

Celeriac "alfredo" - this is celery root peeled into linguini ribbons, blanched like pasta, and then rolled into a mock-alfredo - it might even be vegan-ready, I can't remember. Subbing the celery root for pasta was a nice variation - sweeter, crunchier. I wish I could tell you more about the sauce, except that it was perfectly seasoned and didn't have cream in it.

Strawberry shortcake - the cake was genoise, rather than a biscuit or angel food cake. The moistening syrup was butterscotch - very mild. Genoise can be a pretty crappy cake when done wrong, and I generally don't like wetting it with simple syrup, but I liked this just fine - eggy, sugary, high flavor. It paired well with the moscatel Málaga, name forgotten, on the dessert wine list, which was delicious.

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