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3 Days in Haute Savoie - A Report - Annecy, Chambery, Grenoble

rrems | Sep 30, 201609:51 AM

My partner and I just spent three days in the Haute Savoie, a very beautiful region that we had not been to before. We were based in Seynod, a five minute drive from the center of Annecy. We stopped in Chambery on the way to Annecy, and had lunch at Onze Grandes et Trois Petits.

The 19.50 euro menu included 2 choices for the appetizer and main. We both started with roasted baby eggplants in tomato puree with parmesan, topped with prosciutto. Main courses were leg of pintade (Guinea hen) and lieu (pollock) tempura style in a curry sauce with cabbage. Both showed real creativity. The cheesecake with raspberry coulis was a nice dessert. With a bottle of 2014 Luberon and coffee, the bill was about 68 euros.

Our first night in Annecy, we had dinner at Le Bilboquet, a charming place in the old quarter.

Amuse bouche - Cauliflower soup with mussels

Assortment of vegetables with a parmesan biscuit

Tartare of saddle of veal

Filet of fera (fish from Lac Leman) with vegetables

Duck breast

Assortment of vanilla-based desserts

Raspberries with meringues (vacherin) and ice cream

The cooking here is creative, presentation is beautiful, and the chef obviously likes to work with vegetables. We drank a Chignin from the local area, and the bill came to 110 euros.

Lunch the next day in Annecy was at Contresens. The restaurant is large, with a quirky modern design. Service is friendly and attentive. Everything here was simple and delicious, with a wide choice at reasonable prices. There is one price for each course, regardless of which dish you choose, and you can have as few or as many courses as you want. We had:

Raw fera with marinated onion, potato slices, potato chips and a green sauce

Prawns with curry sauce

Artichokes and fennel

"Hamburgout" from boudin noir, peppers, onion and tomato confit

New potatoes (fingerings) sauteed

We had a bottle of Cotes du Luberon from Provence for 23 euros. Total with coffee came to 73.

For dinner, because it was Stanley's birthday, we chose La Ciboulette, which as a Michelin star. The menu offered two choices for each course, so we each chose one and shared tastes. Dishes tried were:

Canapes - mini pastry with Roquefort cream, puff pastry with olive tapenade, escargot in parsley foam

Amuse bouche - tomato soup with whipped mozzarella

Foie gras sauteed with fig and onion

Mousseline of fish with crayfish from the lake in a cream sauce

Saddle of veal with mushrooms, whipped potatoes and vegetables

Monkfish medallions with artichokes, tomatoes and a tomato confit

Cheese course - A selection of cheeses from the Savoie, chosen from the cheese trolley

Poached pear with chocolate cake and chocolate mousse, vanilla ice cream

Raspberry croustillante


Everything was beautifully presented, as expected. Portions were generous, particularly the foie gras, which was two massive pieces. The desserts were particularly beautiful to look at, but were not as intensely flavored as one would hope. We drank a bottle of Saint Joseph 2014, priced at 42 euros. With two aperitifs of kir a peche, the total came to 190. All in all, it was a pretty good value for a four-course meal of this quality.

The next day, we took a day trip to Grenoble, which turned out to be less interesting than Chambery and Annecy, but we did manage to have an excellent lunch.

As it turned out, the first restaurant we looked at, Le Chasse-Spleen, right across from the museum, had the best looking lunch menu, and the most reasonable price, 18 euros for two courses. The decor is a bit strange, but don't be put off by it. They also have outdoor seating but of course there were smokers there so we opted for inside.

We both had a game terrine with warm potato salad and greens. It was a huge portion and very good. Stanley had mussels stuffed with nuts in a saffron sauce with basmati rice and spinach. I had veal shank in an intense reduction, with miniature ravioli, also a very generous plate of food. With a very good bottle of a Cotes de Provence rose at 24 euros and 2 coffees (served with a chocolate candy) the total was 64.

Our final meal was dinner in Annecy, and we decided to go back to Contresens, as we had enjoyed the previous day's lunch so much, and the menu has so many choices.

This time we had cold pea soup, mozzarella with red and green tomatoes, lamb chops, hanger steak, sides of artichokes with fennel and fried polenta with a Parmesan crust. For dessert we had a "cafe gourmande" (an assortment of desserts normally served with a cup of coffee, but I left the coffee out so I would be able to sleep later) and "M & M's reinvented", a chocolate bombe topped with vanilla ice cream, surrounded by a sauce of chopped M & M's and peanuts. With aperitifs of kir a peche and a bottle of Madiran, the bill came to 101 euros.

For a complete report on our trip, with photos, hotel and sightseeing, visit my blog:

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