Brown has quietly won a neighborhood following on the Lower East Side with simple, satisfying chow made from first-rate ingredients. The five-year-old cafe is part of a color-coded family of businesses, all clustered on the same block of Hester Street, that also comprises a catering outfit called Green, an upscale deli called Orange and (opening soon) a wine store called Pink. “I love this place,” declares tamasha. “The food is delicious and fresh, and the service is attentive.”
Smart orders on the often-changing menu include quiches, charcuterie and cheese, brunch dishes like baked eggs, and sandwiches (typical choice: prosciutto di Parma, roasted tomato, fontina and arugula on baguette). Dinner entrees might include leg of lamb; pan-roasted chicken breast stuffed with onion and robiola; roast striped bass with basil mashed potatoes and vegetable compote; and other simple, hearty combinations. The wine list is promising, desserts are worth a look, and gelato comes from nearby hound hangout Il Laboratorio del Gelato.