Champa Laos does elegant, nuanced East-West fusion–which it describes as “Thai-Lao-French”–without sacrificing any robust seasoning, according to our first reports. michelle71 characterizes the flavors as delicate yet complex, and not Americanized in any way.

Red curry duck is a generous bowl of moist meat, prettily arranged in a knockout spicy/sweet sauce, says Markarotti. Other winners: steamed shrimp-chicken dumplings, Le Mae Khong (Chilean sea bass filet stuffed with crab, spinach, and feta, served in tamarind sauce), and deep-flavored house-made mango ice cream, presented over drizzlings of caramel and raspberry sauces. Open since winter, Champa Laos offers a lengthy menu developed by chef Michael Raethong (of Cafe de Laos and Lemongrass in Philadelphia). It comprises curries and other Thai dishes, Lao-influenced stuff like larb and namtok (grilled meat tossed with spices and roasted rice), and such hybrids as char-grilled tenderloin in Pinot Noir reduction and salmon with “Cajun-seasoned” pistachio crust in apricot brandy sauce.

It’s BYOB, so Markarotti adds some wine tips: avoid heavily oaked whites; better matches would be Viognier, Riesling, or Sauvignon Blanc. Among reds, try peppery or spicy varietals such as Shiraz or Zinfandel.

Champa Laos [Camden County]
219 Haddonfield-Berlin Rd., near Brace Rd., at Centrum Shoppes, Cherry Hill, NJ

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Champa-Laos Great New Thai-Laotian-French BYOB in CherryHill NJ

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