Ramen Halu, favorite ramen-ya of Melanie Wong, *wchane, and chowhounds everywhere, is serving an excellent summer cold noodle dish, tsuke-men. The thick, firm, cold noodles are served on the side, with cold spinach, roast pork, black tree ears, and an intensely salty, piping-hot dipping stock. The stock is so salty that sometimes it limps over on its wooden leg and calls you Matey. It’s dusky and appealingly briny, tasty and complex, with garlic sweetness, bonito fishiness, and porky richness. And did we mention it’s salty? Just have plenty of cold jasmine tea to go with it.

Ramen Halu [South Bay]
375-M South Saratoga Ave., San Jose

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Tsuke-men at Ramen Halu, San Jose

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