There's no shortage of Italian restaurants in the East Side neighborhood where Bread & Tulips opened two months ago. But taystahl says there's still plenty of room for its sure-handed seasonal cooking.
High points of his recent dinner included fritto misto; beet salad (a recent rendition came dressed with Campari-pomegranate vinaigrette); and handmade pasta with lamb ragu, deeply flavorful with a welcome spicy note. There's also great stuff coming out of the restaurant's spiffy new brick oven from Modena, like crostini topped with creamy foie gras, rhubarb, and crushed pistachios. And taystahl's pizza boasted a perfect crust, "airy, chewy, and slightly charred," plus a topping of lardo and egg with richness nicely balanced by sorrel and Tellicherry pepper.
The bottom line, taystahl says, is that the newcomer has won a spot in his local rotation alongside rivals like Maialino, A Voce, and SD26. "The food is very good and in some cases outstanding," he says. "Bread & Tulips is a very solid option for rustic Italian, fitting in nicely with some of the neighborhood's existing Italian heavyweights."
Bread & Tulips [Kips Bay]
365 Park Avenue South (at E. 26th Street), Manhattan