Glendale is hungry is thinking arepas—in particular, the splendid ones at Guacuco in Bushwick. This Venezuelan café makes a killer pernil arepa: pulled roast pork with cheddar, stuffed into crunchy corn cakes made to order. The cazon, filled with shredded herb-scented fish, is “insanely juicy,” Glendale adds, and best eaten over a bowl. Other arepa options include chicken; assorted seafood; grilled steak; mozzarellalike Paisa cheese, with or without ham; the Vegetariana (avocado, tomato, plantain, creamy Guayanese cheese); and salchicha sausage (Glendale dismisses it as “slices of an ‘eh’ hot dog” but loves the scrumptious house-­made sauce that seasons it).

The menu is rounded out by empanadas, featuring some of the same fillings, and larger plates such as asopado de mariscos (seafood soup), cachapas (sweet corn pancakes with cheese and beef), and pabellon criollo, the national dish of shredded beef, black beans, fried sweet plantains, and rice. Beverages include tropical juices and a coconut shake called a cocada, which Glendale finds amazingly tasty but also surprisingly filling: “I recommend getting it to go at the end of a meal or making a special trip just for that.”

Guacuco [Bushwick]
44 Irving Avenue (at Troutman Street), Brooklyn
347-305-3300

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