The African Cuisine in Hyde Park has gotten polarizing reviews on the boards: Some stoutly champion the place; others advise giving it a wide berth. Nab and yumyum grok the disparity, because a recent meal there veered from fantastic to eh.

On the wonderful side, from the West African and Jamaican menu: meat patties that were “crisp, flaky, soft, and snuggly,” says Nab. The patties’ black-eyed pea brethren, known as moi-moi, were tamalelike, with a grainy texture and little bits of meat. The goat pepper soup had “an upfront pepper hit and then a lingering burn,” says yumyum. And the palm wine was a treat.

Not so good: the mains, with jolloff rice with meat bones (“flat,” says Nab), and red-red, which is a stew from Ghana made with black-eyed peas, palm oil, and red pepper; you choose your meat. It was served with fried fish that had so many bones yumyum couldn’t find any meat on them, and the whole thing was too bland. Stick to the fantastic starters and enjoy the atmosphere with friendly owner Roy, who plays African movies from his collection for tables of lingering regulars.

The African Cuisine [Hyde Park]
1248 Hyde Park Avenue, Boston

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