In New York City, great pizza sometimes starts with archaeology. Sicilian-born Charlie Verde, rooting around an old building he’d bought in Bushwick, unearthed a century-old coal-burning oven—a treasure in a town where air-quality rules bar the construction of new ones.

Painstakingly reconditioned, it’s now turning out promising pies at two-month-old Verde Coal Oven Pizza, reports FAL. From a short list of mostly traditional toppings, he chose the margherita and the carciofilla (artichoke, ricotta, mozzarella), both delicious with “fresh, light, and crisp” crusts. Besides pizza, there are house-baked breads and biscotti and very good caponata. Verde’s gotten some early attention (from the pizza pros at Slice, among others) and the locals are quickly discovering the place, so expect a crowd.

Verde Coal Oven Pizza [Bushwick]
254 Irving Avenue (between Bleecker and Menahan streets), Brooklyn

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