Purists and chileheads might as well pass on Sura Thai. “This isn’t the place for you,” warns cimui. “Nothing is terribly hot.” But for sheer deliciousness, high-quality ingredients, and kitchen chops, she adds, this place is sure worth a try.
Fusion preparations are unusually well executed, cimui reports. Pinot Noir duck is a knockout: fried marinated duck breast with beautifully crisp skin, cooked with shallots and sun-dried chile, and topped with tamarind reduction. It comes with steamed Chinese broccoli and a tempura-style hard-cooked egg (“sort of reminiscent of a Scotch egg—in a good way!”). Almost as good, cimui says, is tender, well-marinated honey-glazed duck over bok choy. Other winners include banana-leaf-wrapped barbecued trout (with caramelized fish sauce, shallot chips, roasted chile) and drunken noodles, low on chile heat but full of tender seafood and vegetables.
Simon, who prefers authentic Thai food, is unmoved by Sura. He finds its cooking less Thai and more standard Upper West Side Chinese-American. cimui agrees that the menu isn’t uniformly strong, featuring some skippable “Chineseified” fare. Best bets are duck and seafood dishes, she advises.
Sura Thai [Upper West Side]
2656 Broadway (between W. 100th and 101st streets), Manhattan
Board Link: Sura Thai UWS