“Get some. Now.” That’s Slob’s urgent advice on the spinach gnocchi in Gorgonzola sauce at Malatesta. Yes, he likes it. Where most other Gorgonzola sauces overwhelm, to Slob’s taste, this one “got it RIGHT,” and each gnoccho is meltingly tender, “like a delicious little cloud.”

Around this time of year, hounds crave Malatesta’s spaghetti alla chitarra, a simple, seasonal knockout made with tomato, fresh mozzarella, and basil. It’s quite good, Slob allows, but “couldn’t hold the gnocchi’s jockstrap.” suse sidesteps the jockstrap question but seconds Slob on the gnocchi, saying it is “amazing.” She also describes memorably delicious grilled calamari, tagliatelle with ragu, and grilled lamb chop. “Lots of good food, really,” she concludes.

Malatesta [West Village]
649 Washington Street (at Christopher Street), Manhattan

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