CHOW Tour Handmade
2/14 - 2/27
2/28 - 3/13
3/14 - 3/25
See Where We've Eaten!

At Austin’s Barley Swine, Fancy Food Without the Fuss

After scoping out Barley Swine while interviewing Chef Bryce Gilmore about his trailer Odd Duck, we wanted to go back and actually eat dinner at the month-old restaurant.

Barley Swine is in South Austin, in a low-key brown brick building—we missed it the first time we drove by. The interior is also simple, with high wooden tables and a little bit of a pub feel. Definitely seemed like a natural extension of Gilmore’s trailer ethos of cooking locally sourced stuff with a few fancier presentations, but serving it in a nonfussy environment and keeping it affordable.

The man sure knows how to cook a perfect egg. Just like at Odd Duck, Gilmore serves small dishes, including one featuring a soft-boiled egg. Instead of the simpler polenta and vegetable accompaniment he does at the trailer, he serves the egg at Barley Swine with a crispy pig trotter cake, mushrooms, and a little bit of mustard (pictured). Another big hit: the sweetbreads, cooked supercrispy on the outside, tender and custardy on the inside, without that spongy texture they can sometimes get.

Also of note: one of the better craft beer lists we ran into on our trip, with local beers like Real Ale’s ESB, and most of the all-stars of American craft beer, such as Dogfish Head, Allagash, North Coast, and Brooklyn Brewery.

Barley Swine
2024 S. Lamar Boulevard, Austin

Roxanne Webber is a former editor at CHOW.