After scoping out Barley Swine while interviewing Chef Bryce Gilmore about his trailer Odd Duck, we wanted to go back and actually eat dinner at the month-old restaurant.
Barley Swine is in South Austin, in a low-key brown brick building—we missed it the first time we drove by. The interior is also simple, with high wooden tables and a little bit of a pub feel. Definitely seemed like a natural extension of Gilmore’s trailer ethos of cooking locally sourced stuff with a few fancier presentations, but serving it in a nonfussy environment and keeping it affordable.
The man sure knows how to cook a perfect egg. Just like at Odd Duck, Gilmore serves small dishes, including one featuring a soft-boiled egg. Instead of the simpler polenta and vegetable accompaniment he does at the trailer, he serves the egg at Barley Swine with a crispy pig trotter cake, mushrooms, and a little bit of mustard (pictured). Another big hit: the sweetbreads, cooked supercrispy on the outside, tender and custardy on the inside, without that spongy texture they can sometimes get.
Also of note: one of the better craft beer lists we ran into on our trip, with local beers like Real Ale’s ESB, and most of the all-stars of American craft beer, such as Dogfish Head, Allagash, North Coast, and Brooklyn Brewery.
2024 S. Lamar Boulevard, Austin