The fanatical food geniuses at the Art of Eating plunge into the topic of charcuterie in the magazine’s most recent edition (not online), and leave no creamy liver, zesty blood pocket or flavorful brain unturned.

Pâtés, terrines, rillettes, blood sausage, head cheese—they’re all present in a lovingly written search for good charcuterie in a country still wrestling with the concept. Manhattan’s Bar Boulud, Fra’ Mani in Oakland, and Fabrique Délices in Hayward, California all get appreciative shouts from writer Winnie Yang, who casually mentions her own experience with making head cheese about halfway through the piece.

The story makes for fascinating reading, but the recipes that follow are engrossing: The magazine includes directions for pâté de champagne, mousse de foies, cervelas lyonnais, rillettes de Tours, head cheese, and saucisse de Toulouse.

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