Every once in a while, a major media outlet feels it necessary to declare somewhere the world’s greatest food city. Paris, anyone? New York? Tokyo? Singapore? Bangkok?

Been there, done that. The Wall Street Journal puts forth a compelling case for a new cuisine king: Mexico City:

“There are cities, like Bangkok, where you can eat superbly at open-front restaurants with plastic stools for seats, and cities like Paris, where the food is terrific but comes at a price, usually astronomical. Mexico City is a rarity: From open-air markets to the highest-end restaurant, the food is magnificent.”

Writer Stan Sesser makes his point relatively briefly but thoroughly, walking readers through a cornucopia of flavors and providing a handy seven-restaurant gastronomic trip planner.

As a loving bit of culinary tribute, the piece is worth a look. Here’s an amuse-bouche of the sort of details it contains:

“At Biko, a strikingly modern restaurant started by Mikel Alonso and Bruna Oteiza, former sous chefs from San Sebastian, Spain, I had fried green plantain stuffed with onion mousse and topped with caviar, and Cornish game hen coated with crushed popcorn …”

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