“Throughout the morning, the men demonstrated respect for the cycle of life” is not a sentence you’d expect to read outside a Robert Bly book, much less in a Washington Post article, but the WaPo offers up the Blythean sentiment in a story about a group of chefs who hunt as a source of sustainable meat.

Chefs R.J. Cooper and David Guas are part of the group that shoots geese overwintering on a 62-acre farm in Centreville, Maryland. Out of the 15,000 to 20,000 geese that land on the farm every year, the hunters cull around 150. The farm’s owner, Tim Sughrue, says that shooting and eating geese is part of the food chain, and that if the population went unchecked there would be outbreaks of waterfowl cholera. The chefs like that the geese are all natural.

Two problems present themselves in the piece: One, the hunters use only the breasts of the geese (it’s too much hassle to clean the whole goose, they say); and two, the meat tends to be tough. Your best bet, says Guas, is to brine or marinate it for a long time, or to cure it and make pastrami.

Maybe the hunters could donate the rest of the bird to charity.

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