This Jill Santopietro, she’s got quite a nice style. Sign me up for her newsletter.

Blogging over at the New York Times Magazine site, Santopietro did a comparative taste test of a variety of more-ethical-than-thou (fair trade, organic, etc.) chocolate bars. You might think that the moral and political correctness of the chocolate in question would inspire an overly reverent and respectful tone of hushed praise, with just a dab of gentle chastisement for those bars falling short of the mark. Nope.

Theo? “[N]ot worth the calories.”

Dagoba? “[G]ive it to your next-door neighbor who eats everything.”

Endangered Species? “[H]ad to spit it out. … [I]f dogs could eat chocolate, I would have given it to the dog.”

Ooh, nasty! At any rate, the taste test deserves high marks for breadth, concise notes, and—this can’t be praised often enough—candor.

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