Kellogg's Cinnabon Pancakes

Kellogg's Cinnabon Pancakes

I Paid: $2.75 for a box of 12 small pancakes (prices may vary by region)

Taste: 4 stars

Marketing: 3 stars

Ah, the Cinnabon brand. Personified by a cinnamon roll that’s as big as your sense of postconsumption self-loathing (a.k.a. volleyball-size), it sells itself as a gateway to comfort, sweetness, and pampering. (Eating a Cinnabon is also a widely acknowledged way to escape the pressures of whatever airport you happen to be stranded at.)

While I wasn’t crazy about the austere-tasting Cinnabon Bar, I decided to give the frozen Cinnabon Pancakes a shot. And surprisingly, in the pancakes at least, the Cinnabon concept was able to go beyond the bun.

The pancakes are relatively fluffy and light, with a pleasantly spongelike chewiness. The cinnamon taste is present but not too aggressive, and the size of the pancakes—just a few inches in diameter—makes a three-stack part of a good breakfast, when supported with fruit and coffee. There’s not much of a buttermilk tang to them (for better or worse), and they’re far superior when heated up in the microwave; when baked in the oven, they develop a shoe-leathery bottom crust.

Like the Cinnabon Bar, if anything, these pancakes underdo it a little bit. But being able to go from no pancakes to three decent, cinnamon-spiced pancakes in a little over a minute was a distinctly comforting experience.

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