Capital Seafood is a new sleek, elegant Hong Kong–style restaurant. "Well-trained and friendly wait staff, napkins as thick as mover's blankets, but on the other hand they pile dirty dishes on an adjacent table instead of whisking them away immediately ... still, the atmosphere was a good one," says Will Owen.
The food is better than you might expect. French-style beef is "beefy, rich, sweet, tangy, unctuous, compelling," says Will Owen. "Each morsel was a perfect bite of meat, even after we'd lingered and it had gotten cold." Pea leaves in garlic sauce have a lovely rich flavor and the right texture.
The place is a class act, and not hideously expensive. "On the one hand it is a chain, and it runs to a formula; on the other hand, you can get fried pig intestine as an appetizer," says Will Owen.
Capital Seafood [San Gabriel Valley]
333 E. Huntington Drive, Arcadia