Capital Seafood is a new sleek, elegant Hong Kong–style restaurant. “Well-trained and friendly wait staff, napkins as thick as mover’s blankets, but on the other hand they pile dirty dishes on an adjacent table instead of whisking them away immediately … still, the atmosphere was a good one,” says Will Owen.

The food is better than you might expect. French-style beef is “beefy, rich, sweet, tangy, unctuous, compelling,” says Will Owen. “Each morsel was a perfect bite of meat, even after we’d lingered and it had gotten cold.” Pea leaves in garlic sauce have a lovely rich flavor and the right texture.

The place is a class act, and not hideously expensive. “On the one hand it is a chain, and it runs to a formula; on the other hand, you can get fried pig intestine as an appetizer,” says Will Owen.

Capital Seafood [San Gabriel Valley]
333 E. Huntington Drive, Arcadia

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