Issue six of the food lit journal Alimentum has a hauntingly beautiful (and brief, and not online) essay about the mango. The author, Nancy Hathaway, jumps seamlessly between mythological references to the fruit and her fading mother, whose self-destructing memory still hasn’t stolen her love for all things mango.
My mother will probably not be cured, despite many fresh mangoes, not to mention mango chutney and mango sorbet. Increasingly, she cannot remember my name, and Ruben’s has disappeared entirely, although for decades she mentioned him whenever she saw mangoes piled on a peddler’s cart.
It’s exactly this sort of little gem that speaks to the strength of independent journals such as Alimentum: quirky, inspired, truly moving food writing that would struggle to find a home in Gourmet or Bon Appétit.