Home fries are good again, announces an excited Jim Leff. “After decades of horrendous decline, delicious pure home fries are starting to blossom, like post-apocalyptic wildflowers. Everywhere I go these days, it’s as if the tuber fairy has waved her mottled wand over the grill,” he says.

“In the NY tristate area, where home fries had metastasized into a cruel joke, a needless, gratuitous tamping down of the inherent goodness of fried spuds, they are resurrecting. They are shaking off their cynical debasement with bell pepper chunks. They are divesting themselves of their fake orange hue. They are casting aside their sog and their funk.”

So don’t just reflexively order those mealy steak fries with your burger because you think the alternative will be even worse: Give home fries a try. “It’s safe, everyone, really,” Jim Leff assures us.

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