In a war that has torn brother from brother, the cheesemakers of Wisconsin seem to be gaining ground on their bitter rivals from the Golden State.

Fellow Grinder-er James Norton, moonlighting at Saveur, believes this is due less to the wearing of cheesy headgear than to the proliferation of artisan cheese producers in America’s Dairyland. He profiles five delicious-sounding offerings, including Union Star’s suprisingly addictive string cheese and Carr Valley’s intriguingly browned Juustoleipa. He even champions a Limburger that will make you rethink your attitude about this stinky cheese.

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