Total Trattoria, an installation by designer Martino Gamper, is a fully functioning kitchen and dining space inside of London’s Aram Gallery. Gamper designed every element of the installation—from the table to the cutlery, the glassware to the storage units—making it the quintessential DIY dinner event. The highlight was Gamper cooking dinner there recently for 25 invited guests. (The menu included beetroot and celeriac soup, mackerel in ginger broth, and rhubarb stewed in homemade beer.) Gamper is yet another in an intriguing line of artists whose cooking is performance: Rirkrit Tiravanija and Gordon Matta-Clark precede him. Practical? No. Awesome? Yes.

Total Trattoria at Aram Gallery, through April 26

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