The Dining Room
Housed in a high art deco building that was formerly the headquarters of the MetLife insurance company, and directly across from leafy Madison Square Park, it’s got the original earth-colored marble in the foyer, chrome revolving door, and painted bas-relief work on the high ceilings. This unique reuse of space gives the restaurant an air of stateliness with an edge of classic retro that could never be re-created now in such stunning detail.
It looked like ornate dollhouse furniture, placed on its silver tiered serving platter, and included a brilliant orange carrot marshmallow dusted with powdered white balsamic vinegar, a tiny teardrop-shaped, deep-fried package of sweetbreads, and a creamy mushroom tartlet.
Mozzarella Ice Cream and Basil Granola
A riff on the classic caprese salad included cores of tomatoes shaped with an apple peeler, mozzarella ice cream (creamy, slightly chewy, better than the nonfrozen original), and a savory granola of Rice Krispies and basil.
Good-sized, intact joints of lobster meat beneath a few ribbons of wide pasta into which herbs had been pressed. The whole thing was topped with paper-thin shavings of tiny summer squash, and surrounded by a moat of lemon verbena sauce and reddish clarified butter and grapeseed oil that had been infused with lobster shells.
Madeleine Grab Bag
For the mignardises, you get to select as many miniature macarons off a silver tray as you desire. We had chamomile/lemon verbena, peanut butter and jelly, brown butter, and Earl Grey/blackberry.