The appetizer of a “duo of lobster and corn” was probably our favorite dish. On one side of the plate was cold chawan mushi (savory custard) topped with lobster tartare and a scoop of shiso-lobster whipped cream. The other side, a thin rectangle of corn biscuit with lobster claw meat, thin, almost melted scallions, and a tomalley (lobster paste) sauce. It really showed Lo’s ability to combine influences from many cultures into a coherent dish that didn’t feel like it was trying too hard to be “fusion.” The food feels genuine.
Her fish entrées were also excellent. The miso-marinated sable came to the table on crispy tofu surrounded by a pool of sweet-savory bonito broth with seaweed and a layer of tiny red roe. The seaweed and roe drifted in the broth like it was a little ocean. A bit less metaphorical: the crispy sautéed bass served on top of creamed kohlrabi with bacon, with raw julienned kohlrabi on top. Nice to see kohlrabi get some love.
A few days after we dined at Annisa, we caught up with Lo to interview her and check out a new item she was putting on the menu: eggplant two ways. It’s a very summery dish, with different types of Turkish peppers stuffed into the eggplant and some yogurt and yogurt water (whey). Here’s a look: