Show-Stopping Bread from Georgia

The stuff ChiefHDB's recent dreams are made of is a buttery round of bread, filled with cheese and crowned with a raw egg and yet more butter. That’s the Georgian acharuli khachapuri at Pirosmani in Brooklyn, and it left him sated but not speechless: "I don't think you can make something more perfectly decadent than this khachapuri. What more could you possibly want? What more could you possibly need?"

It was the big winner of a blowout spread that the Chief recounts through a honey-pepper vodka haze. Breads were front and center, as you might expect at a Georgian restaurant. Shotis puri was a crusty and awesome thing, "a long, thin bread that looks like it swallowed a football." (But imeruli khachapuri was an overly buttery misfire.)

Balancing out the starch were badrijani, eggplant filled with a crunchy walnut-and-herb paste; lobio, fresh-tasting kidney beans with walnuts; and a dill-scented salad of cucumber, tomato, and parsley. Mtsvadi (lamb and pork skewers) were grilled to a great smoky char, a nice match for the sweet/sour plum sauce that came on the side. And khinkali, dumplings filled with beef, pork, and broth, posed a daunting challenge. "The goal," says the Chief, "is apparently to not lose any of the broth. I failed miserably by sending an explosion of it over my plate (blame the vodka)."

Pirosmani [Sheepshead Bay]
2222 Avenue U (between E. 22nd and 23rd streets), Brooklyn
718-368-3237

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