Haejangchon has risen to the top of the all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue heap for Bon Vivant, who especially likes the kalbi in a marinade that’s a nice balance of sweet and savory.
For $16.99, you get as much pork belly, sliced brisket, and kalbi as your heart (and stomach) desires, plus mild radish kimchee in its fermented broth (it’s actually quite refreshing); kimchee pancake; spicy soybean-paste soup with tofu; kimchee fried rice; and salad—as well as pickled daikon slices and rice noodle sheets (ttuk) for wrapping the meat.
The brisket is good, but despite the happy-looking pig on the restaurant sign, the pork belly lacks flavor.
The stovetop grill is a regional variety made of stone, with a hole in the end that’s tilted downward to let the juice and fat run out. They periodically sluice it with pickled radish water to rinse.
Haejangchon Dolgooi Restaurant [Koreatown]
3821 W. Sixth Street, Los Angeles