Looks aren’t everything. Fearless Chowhounds in search of the next great undiscovered hole in the wall might walk right past an attractive, modern-looking restaurant such as Eclipse in Sunset Park. rawcuzima almost did: “It was too nice!” Fortunately the cold weather chased her inside, where her reward was delicious, authentic Mexican food. Soups are smart orders, she suggests; try the satisfying caldo tlalpeño (chicken, chipotle, and vegetables) or sopa de mariscos (fresh, beautifully cooked shrimp, calamari, mussels, and striped bass in a rich, boldly spiced broth).
Open for a couple of years, Eclipse appears to be on top of its game. “Think De Mole in Sunnyside, by means of comparison, but a larger menu,” says calabaza, naming one of New York hounds’ favorite Mexican restaurants. “It is definitely not the cheese-laden ridiculousness served up at a lot of NYC Mexican places.” One sign of a kitchen that cares, she adds, is first-rate rice and beans.
Also recommended: barbecued chicken burritos, suadero (fatty beef) huaraches, fresh cilantro-laden guacamole, and a standout chicharrón salad—big chunks of fried pork skin over radishes, avocado, pickled jalapeño, and chopped romaine. And jmat, who moved away to Queens some time ago, confesses that Eclipse’s egg sandwiches (with bacon, beans, avocado, and more) keep calling him back: “I’ll always have a reason to visit the old ’hood.”
Eclipse [Sunset Park]
4314 Fourth Avenue (at 43rd Street), Brooklyn