Cartoonist Chris Onstad is more than a hilarious dude who can throw down animal-based humor content with the finest of writers—he’s also a serious food lover who once characterized Christopher Kimball as “this goofy, 8-foot-tall nerd…. I describe him as a Yankee Wookie.”

So kudos to Patrick Alan Coleman of the Portland Mercury for having the savvy to show up at Onstad’s kitchen with “a red cooler containing two pounds of ungulate testicles—yak and buffalo, to be exact.”

The story is a wondrous romp through testicle preparation and musings on cookbookery—Onstad’s working on his second Achewood cookbook and is in the proper frame of mind to go wild on a bunch of improvisational recipes including fried and French- and Chinese-style reproductive orbs. If you’re not yet sold on reading the piece and the accompanying recipes, perhaps this will help:

“What I’ve got is more yak testicles, this time soaked in buttermilk and spices. We drain them before tossing them in flour and dropping them into the hot oil. We watch them bob up and down, bubbling in the hot liquid. The wine has made us gregarious, and our cooking has become fearless. That’s standard operating procedure in the Achewood Test Kitchen. ‘I make each recipe at least five times in various states of inebriation, so I’ve had at least one sober cooking experience,’ says Onstad.”

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