Freda’s is a welcome uptown newcomer whose jerk chicken kills (in the best possible sense of the word), says sarahmilne. “Tender, brown, spicy, saucy wonderfulness,” she says. Worthy sides include rice and peas and uncommonly light, almost soufflélike callaloo, made here with okra and coconut milk. Lemonade manages to be “sweet sweet sweet” yet also refreshing.

Décor is inviting, service is sweet. sarah’s sole quibble concerns the television: “The History Channel on at full blast at 1 in the afternoon in a half-empty restaurant? It doesn’t matter, though. They can play whatever they like, they’re still going to see a fair amount of me.”

Freda’s [Upper West Side]
993 Columbus Avenue (at W. 109th Street), Manhattan
646-438-9832

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