Melanie Wong has been back to Rosso Pizzeria three times in one month. It’s the pizza—and the meatballs, and the burrata. It’s the fact that they serve simple, utterly fresh food, and they make it right.

When the pizza crust is perfect, it’s perfect, with a charred and puffy edge and a tender, but not wet, center. There have been some small inconsistencies in the crust from visit to visit—sometimes it’s a little too pliable, and other times just a wee bit too crunchy—but even when it’s slightly off-center of perfection, it’s great. Melanie’s favorite pizzas are the Funghi ($12.50) and the Inter-Milan ($12.50). The Funghi—mushroom pizza—has a richness, complexity, and depth of flavor that are completely, primally satisfying. The Inter-Milan is perhaps even better: perfect crust, and a seamless meld of topping to crust. There are alliums—leeks, scallions, and garlic—each giving its own sweetness to the pizza. In general, the least-beloved pizzas are the red-sauce-based ones (other than the terrific Margherita). Something about the current crust recipe doesn’t sit well with red sauce.

Meatballs are wonderful and homey. Burrata with prosciutto di Parma is a must, says Melanie. The burrata is pretty much the silkiest, most cloudlike version of mozzarella you could imagine. “[S]oft billows of heaven,” says Lori SF, who appreciates Rosso’s partnering with local food producers; it makes for fabulously fresh food.

Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar [Sonoma County]
53 Montgomery Drive, Santa Rosa

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