The only restaurant dedicated to the elusive cuisine of Michoacán in the L.A. area is in Pacoima, says streetgourmetla about the excellent Birrieria Apatzingan.
You might start with pork in tomatillo sauce, a hearty Michoacán specialty in a bowl with white rice, beans, and a topping of supple pork ribs in tangy salsa. Or you might lean toward ordering something with guajillo chile sauce, used to fry chicken and potatoes and to cover enchiladas. On the side, uchepos are the pure corn tamales of Michoacán. “Forget about the other corn tamale hypes in town, this is the real deal,” says streetgourmetla. These uchepos are only available on weekends, and they run out fast. Go early, or call and reserve some in advance.
But at its heart, this is a birrieria, a goat joint. There’s always a big pot of birria en caldo (goat soup) simmering away. “This is reason alone to come to Birrieria Apatzingan,” says streetgourmetla. “The broth is slurp ’til the last drop good, the kind of soup that makes you cringe the each time a dot of the juice falls onto the table negotiating the journey from bowl to mouth.”
Birrieria Apatzingan [San Fernando Valley – East]
10040 Laurel Canyon Boulevard, Pacoima