Smoked Meat and Asian Heat at Fatty ‘Cue

Smoky, slow-cooked meat meets Southeast Asian heat at Fatty 'Cue, opened last month by the crew behind Fatty Crab. It's a marriage made in hog heaven, says CalJack, who loves the Sunday pig dinner. He describes wondrously crisp and juicy pork shoulder, served with wheat buns and sharp pineapple curry sauce. "The whole meal felt like a bold, brave new flavor frontier," he marvels.

Silverjay's sold on the American Wagyu brisket. "Great home-smoked flavor, plenty of the wonderful connective tissue fattiness of brisket, and a hearty thickly cut portion to enjoy," he reports. "This is, perhaps, the pinnacle of what one can achieve out of brisket." He's less taken with what he calls the "choose your own adventure" serving style, where diners assemble their own little sliders in fluffy buns, seasoned to taste with onion, cilantro, "chili jam," and other condiments. No matter, he adds, since the meat itself is amazingly good. Silverjay also fell for 'Cue coriander bacon: delicious thick-cut squares of house-cured pork served with yellow curry custard, a delicate, aromatic complement to the rich meat.

Check out barbecue-friendly cocktails like the 'Cue—rum, smoked pineapple, Pernod, and Tabasco—"each sip of which packaged distinct sweet, sour, smoky, and spicy notes," says CalJack. "I usually scoff at fancy mixed drinks, but this was as memorable as anything I've ever tried. I might as well book my ticket for fat camp right now."

Fatty 'Cue [Williamsburg]
91 S. Sixth Street (at Kent Street), Brooklyn
718-389-8881

Discuss: Fatty 'Cue – anyone been?

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