Jo Jo Tai Pei Spin-Off

Some folks connected with the superpopular Jo Jo Tai Pei have split off to open their own place, Formosa Tapei, and the reports so far are good. The small Taiwanese spot has zero atmosphere and no tables, just some counters along the back wall and about four stools where you can sit and gobble down your food if you're not doing takeout. Noteworthy dishes:

• Taiwanese wonton soup "had some nice delicately formed wontons (goldfish shaped, not the usual envelope fold) and was surprisingly peppery (black pepper, not chili)," writes PinchOfSalt.

• Three-cup tofu or chicken with "a very thin sauce but really nice balanced flavors," says lipoff.

• Flounder fish fillet, "very beautiful soft pillows of fish in a pleasantly spicy sauce. Nothing too fancy, but someone definitely knows what he's doing in the kitchen!" says lipoff.

• Sesame biscuit, which lipoff calls a strange name for a puffy layered bread with sesame seeds on top and scallions inside. But "I've had this made by a Chinese grandmother before, but never in a restaurant. It was great!"

Make sure and leave with a pack of the frozen pork and cabbage dumplings: "Better, I thought, than those from the Chinese Spaghetti Factory. Plumper, better tasting dough that held up well to pan fry/steaming at home. The filling was also excellent, meaty with nice cabbage flavor. They're also made with a flat side that the CSF dumplings don't have, makes them pan fry with a nice crispy side," says justbeingpolite.

Formosa Tapei [North of Boston]
315 Marrett Road, Lexington
781-862-6198

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