Pies ‘n’ Thighs, the Chowhound-certified barbecue and bakery wedged into a Williamsburg bar, closed two years ago and found new, larger digs not far away. Then hungry fans waited. And waited. Finally the place is back in business, and evidently no worse for its prolonged hiatus.

“The cozy charm is still intact,” reports CalJack, “as are the crisp, flavorful pieces of chicken, the buttery biscuits, and the reasonable prices.” Porky collard greens are a standout side; so are cold black-eyed peas, smoky and zesty with a touch of spice. The expanded menu includes a burger (made with beef from Brooklyn’s Meat Hook); a crisp, tasty “Big Salad” of beet, carrot, avocado, and hard-cooked egg over lettuce; and a few once-occasional specials now promoted to the daily lineup, including the popular brisket sandwich.

Hounds approve of the house-baked bread, including a nutty, hearty multigrain; the new space, especially the inviting back room; and the short but well-chosen list of beers (two recent pours: India Pale Ale from Captain Lawrence in Westchester and the Belgian-style White Rascal from Avery in Colorado). No word yet on the signature pies, but sam1 has sampled the trail mix cookie and pronounces it “pretty damn excellent.”

Pies ‘n’ Thighs [Williamsburg]
166 S. Fourth Street (at Driggs Avenue), Brooklyn

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