“If every tofu tasted like that from Siam Taste of Asia, we’d see an immediate surge in soy bean futures,” says elmomonster about the deep-fried tofu candy, “tricked out with a coating of a sticky, spicy, sugary-sweet glaze that might as well be, as I mentioned, a Willy Wonka confection.”

Trust the server, heed her warning. Leave these alone for a minute when they come out. Because they will burn you. “I say this because even after thumb-twiddling a few beats, and blowing it like it was on fire, a friend bit into one and out sloshed a scalding torrent of soy-curd napalm. Ouch!” says elmomonster.

“The custardy, milky lava hides beneath the craggly surface of its crust—a crunchy shell with the same DNA as a tater tot—which is solid enough to make a hollow sound when you rap on it with a spoon,” says elmomonster.

Besides the tofu, there’s lots of other great stuff: spinach with golden shards of garlic; great pad see ew with meticulously thin-sliced Chinese broccoli. Tom kha gai soup “has a surplus of flavor and elegance,” says elmomonster.

Siam Taste of Asia [Little Saigon]
3520 West First Street, Santa Ana

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