So 9 a.m. may be on the early side for Chinatown, but it’s the right time to swing by the snack table, says Dommy.
Just off the sidewalk is a table loaded with dim sum items, fried plantains, and even turnovers. A heating cabinet keeps goodies like bao and Vietnamese spring rolls nice and warm.
The goods seem to be made in a closetlike mobile kitchen. Deep-fried French bread with prawns looks like a Chinese-style county fair gut-buster, but its freshness keeps it rather delicate. The bread is light, with a slight chew; the batter thin and very crisp; and the prawn shell makes it all extracrunchy.