This month, Imbibe tastes complex aged rums ranging from Mount Gay Extra Old (12 to 17 years) to Brugal Añejo Gran Reserva Familiar (5 years), on the increasingly well-established premise that you can thoughtfully sip rum rather than blending it with crushed ice, coconut, and pineapple juice.

Not to steal Imbibe’s thunder, but Matusalem Gran Reserva (15 years) and Mount Gay Extra Old took the top spots in the survey, the former praised for its “smooth and supple” finish with “a lingering spice,” the latter singled out for being a “light and ethereal” “marriage of butter, anise and vanilla.”

Rum: It’s come a long way from being pirate lubricant.

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