White truffles are pungently fragrant and fantastically expensive: upwards of $200 an ounce, notes celeryroot. Their cousin, black truffles, are somewhat less expensive, but still a significant outlay of cash. (See Fresh Truffles Under the Tree in last week’s General Topics Digest.) But meet the humble Burgundy truffle, says eldenwine, “reporting” from Burgundy. “What we call here the Burgundy truffle is Tuber uncinatum or Tuber aestivum, the summer truffle, sometimes called the gray truffle (and known in Italy as scorzone),” explains eldenwine. “These truffles are in season now (and will be in until the first hard frost).”

Shaving fresh Burgundy truffles over pasta is a great use for them, but cooking them will destroy much of the flavor. “The summer truffle is nowhere nearly as pungent as its more well-know cousins from the Piedmont and Périgord, but because they are less expensive, you can use more!” says eldenwine. “And remember: your don’t really taste truffle, you smell it … it invades your sinuses.”

mpb4f has seen Burgundy truffles for sale this season for around $36 an ounce. A final word: beware counterfeit truffles.

Discuss: Burgundy (autumn) truffles from Italy

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